Filed under: Books, Hawaii | Tags: digestible, Hawaii, history, michener, novel
Just finished reading Michener’s mammoth historical novel Hawaii. While he is certainly no master stylist, the sheer scale of the work, the ability to crystalize dense layers of history into digestible essentials, to approach multiple cultures with an attitude of respect and openmindedness – all this is impressive. Michener’s approach to writing has a very Hollywood feel to it (with all the positive and negative implications that entails), and in fact it is no wonder that it took filmmakers just seven years to base a movie on the novel. Although it was nominated for and won several Oscars, I can’t imagine it compares favorably with the book.
I had been told to read this before coming by someone who had lived here, and I understand why. It is an excellent companion to time spent here, condensing the cultural issues of the place for the non-local, providing him with a frame of reference for filing real life encounters with the locals. So many of the conditions and challenges posed by the islands mentioned throughout the novel still persist today, a fact that is sometimes a little scary. The disenfranchisement of the native Hawaiians has only soured, and the materialistic drive for domination of the island’s scant resources that infected each subsequent culture that came to the islands has only deepened. At the same time, the beautiful, truly multicultural (in contrast to the fragmented subcultures of mainland America) society that Michener saw blossoming in the 50s has come to pass – albeit with only a partial inclusion of the native Hawaiians.
One of my favorite passages comes early on, a prophetic admonition at the end of Michener’s lengthy description of the geological formation of the islands:
Do not come to these islands empty-handed, or craven in spirit, or afraid to starve. There is no food here. In these islands there is no certainty. Bring your own food, your own gods, your own flowers and fruits and concepts. For if you come without resources to these islands you will perish.
Filed under: Honolulu, Random | Tags: barrackbar, election, Honolulu, McCain, panos
One day, not long after I started working where I now, still, work, we got a new neighbor next door of our office. It was Panos Prevedouros, the Greek professor of engineering at U of H, and self-proclaimed voice of the people in the race for Honolulu mayorship. Having the campaign headquarters of a minor local celeb one door over provided a few moments of diversionary office chat, but the excitement – scant though it was – was to be shortlived. Panos was a one-issue pony who had jumped into the race to give greater voice to the anti-rail movement. And after a meek showing in the election, the shutters began to go back up on the place.
Until, that is, about a month ago.
When someone much more exciting – and allegedly erratic – also decided that a narrow, little-traveled road between some warehouses and auto body shops is the perfect place to erect a campaign headquarters. That someone is none other than the Maverick, Senator John McCain.
Yes, we’ve taken a big step up in the world from the days of Panos for Progress. We now proudly share a wall with the campaign of McCain/Palin Country First.
From the outside the place seemed to be a hive of electric inactivity, and after a few weeks of sheer boredom in the officeplace, I could no longer resist the urge to see if there was a place on the block more inert than where I park my keester from 8 to 5. I would transform myself into a modern day Raoul Duke, and head straight into the heart of the American dream… during my lunch break, of course.
If I had harbored any doubts as to the seriousness the McCain camp’s efforts in Hawaii, they were washed away entirely when I strolled in nonchalantly the day after the final debate to find three folks sitting lazily around a table covered with a red and white checked table cloth munching on catered food. The closest one, a noble-looking rotundish lady with horn-rimmed glasses, acknowledged my presence with an offering of food. “We’re catching up on the debate, didn’t see it last night.” Soo… you are a campaign staffer and you didn’t bother to watch the debates. Hmm. I mentioned casually, off-handedly even, that I am actually a supporter of the other camp, but curiosity just led me right in here… I trailed off, waiting for the pitch, the inquisition, the tirade. Nothing. “Do you mind if I take some promotional literature?” Sure, go ahead. She returned to her food and catching up on the debate.
So ended my savage journey in a tidal wave of anticlimax. The most interesting thing I noted was a King-Kong-size cutout of John McCain taking up one whole wall.
They may not have gotten my vote on that day, but that’s ok. I’m already throwing my support behind the only candidate worth backing: The Admiral himself.
Filed under: Dining, Hawaii, Honolulu | Tags: bogart's cafe, brunch, monsarrat, nutella
Located just two doors down from Diamond Head Cove Health Bar, Bogart’s is half cafe (local art on walls, big ass cups of decent coffee) half diner. Be you craving a classic brunch with a dash of island flavor (fruits and fishes), you could go much worse than this place. Located safely on Monsarrat, far enough from the touristy throngs, this place is a fixture of the Kapahulu/Diamond Head “scene.” The omelettes supposedly reign supreme, and I will give them a go next time round, because the breakfast burrito I had, while packed with tasty fluffy eggs, Portuguese sausage, fried potatoes and cheese, was a little smallish for the beast that lives in my belly. Waffles come recommended; I had a few bites of Mizuho’s which were swathed in Nutella. All I have to say is, don’t bogart this joint! Pass it on…
Welcome to the wonderful world of education in Hawaii. No doubt you’ve heard a few things about the school system, and I am here to confirm that it is all true.
Last Friday we attended our first open house at the preschool where Taiyo has been going since August. Arriving a few minutes late, we took an open seat in the alcove near the administrative office where the principal was greeting parents with a welcome message that was about as heartfelt as a bureaucrat’s handshake. Looking around it was clear that less than half the families with children in the school had bothered to attend. And as events proceeded, it became apparent why. Nobody, including the principal, had really bothered to prepare anything beyond refreshments for the evening. Taiyo’s teacher didn’t even show up – she was on vacation. We instead relied on the hospitality of the non-native English-speaking assistant teacher and one of the rotating class aides. The hour-long session consisted of the kids playing in the classroom with intermittent conversations between the teaching assistants and those parents who were willing to approach and ask questions.
Was there a presentation? No. When I asked about the daily/weekly schedule, did I receive anything resembling a detailed or coherent answer? No. Do I have any confidence whatsoever that my kid is receiving a valuable educational experience? No.
Considering we pay over $700 a month, I think I have the right to expect more than just basic daycare/social learning services. At the very least, I expect the school to make a pretense of providing more than that.
So the precedent has been set for an educational experience where, if you attend public schools, you are lucky to graduate speaking more than pidgin. In a state that perennially ranks in the bottom ten nationally in education, a state that just slashed another $45 million in education budget.
It is more obvious than ever why the only mainland haoles living here are either in their 20s or their 60s and up. No one wants to subject their kids to the education system here unless they can afford Punahou.
I’d like to end with a caveat. I don’t mean to be (though I probably sound) wholly negative about the prospect of a Hawaiian education. I have noticed that Taiyo’s alphabet and counting skills are improving, and during fire safety month, he has come home spouting the odd fact or two about what to do in a fire emergency. At the same time, as a young, concerned parent, I rely on the school for reassurance that my child is building the foundation for his future education. And I’m just not getting that.
Filed under: Gadgets, Hawaii, Sport, Surf | Tags: granny, kimo's, robert august, surfboard
I am now an official member of Hawaiian society.
Not because I registered to vote here – which I did recently, as if my vote will count in an overwhelmingly pro-Obama state – but because I stopped shelling out ludicrous amounts of cash for board rentals and bought my own. Come to think of it, they probably wouldn’t have allowed me to vote if they knew I was not a surfboard owner; I am now legit.
The purchase did not come easily, which was a surprise to me. I would have thought buying a board in Hawaii was like shooting fish in a barrel. I should clarify: it is easy to find new boards, of course. I was looking for a used long board for a decent price. One of the reasons this is not a buyers market, I would guess, is that serious surfers collect boards like guitarists amass stockpiles of guitars.
So there I was, scouring Craigslist and the local shops, and coming up with nothing. All I was looking for was a ten-foot-plus beater for around $300. Then we heard about a place called Kimo’s Surf Hut located in Kailua. So we drove over for a a few hours of sun on Lanikai, a superb and somewhat secluded beach, and stopped in at Kimo’s on the way back to Honolulu.
As soon as I stepped into the shop I knew I had come the right place. Kimo’s son immediately showed me a couple boards that fit my criteria. Then his younger brother came and told him Kimo had one that had just come in that was perfect for me. I walked back out into the sun and there it was lying out on a couple of wooden workbenches: an old, yellowing 11-foot epoxy Robert August longboard by Surftech.
It’s about the most dinged up piece of junk you can imagine, but it still floats, and for a guy who still surfs like a granny, it is choice.
