Filed under: Dining, Hawaii, Honolulu | Tags: character, hawaii nui, kakaako, kona, kua aina, liquor collection
Several weekends ago I found myself in need of a beer to accompany a Kua Aina burger. Being in Kaka’ako, I knew the Liquor Collection, with its formidable selection of world beers, would provide. What could be a more appropriate fit to a Hawaiian burger than a brewed-in-Hawaii ale? I decided to acquaint myself with Hawaii Nui’s Golden Ale and was far from disappointed. Nice and crisp with a fine, upstanding character. Lacking the refinement of the Kona beers with which I am much better acquainted, but definitely worth repeat explorations.
I’ve never really been a fan of nihonshu (sake). This was probably due to the bad introduction I had to it. One too many OneCup hangovers, I guess. Later I got into shochu, and it became my Japnese beverage of choice. I would only drink nihonshu if it was offered, and then only grudgingly.
The other night I had a nihonshu to jolt me out of my indifference. A friend was kind enough to bring by a bottle of Kubota Manju, which is perennially rated among the top nihonshus. It went down so easily, before we knew it we had polished off the bottle. Which was a shame, because it seemed like something to be savored in small doses.
I tell you what, though. The next morning I woke up not with a OneCup hangover, but feeling clearer-headed and looser of limb than I had for weeks. Truly a well-balanced brew.
Filed under: Dining, Hawaii, Honolulu | Tags: authentic, Dining, japanese, miyabi
I’m brimming with chagrin over not bringing a camera to Miyabi, a newish izakaya on Kapahulu, very close to Safeway (we parked there, though you can apparently use the Go Bannanas parking). The ambiance was simple, stylish and much more of a wa-fu vibe than the usual Hawaiianese compromise (though dimming the lights and turning down the music a couple notches would be recommended). The food definitely matched the atmosphere. Far and away the best and most authentic Japanese meal I’ve had on the island. We started with a tofu-tomato salad, and the tofu was quality – not the blobby, gelatinous supermarket variety. Nicely textured, and topped with a noteworthy dressing. It helped that the greens were very fresh and truly mixed – often a problem on this island. Around the same time some fried potato for the kids came out. Thick, chunky, well-salted – even though we had ordered them for the kids, I couldn’t help filching a few. Everything else was equally impressive, from the hokke to the sushi. Great sushi, actually. I tried a maguro just to see, and both fish and rice were exquisite. We also had some kind of shrimp/crab roll with a fanciful name that I forget, but I’d rate it up there with some of the better makis I’ve had in Japan. All of this was paired with Tomino Hozan shochu, which I had never tried before. I’m typically a fan of those pungent, earthy imos, but was won over by the subtle balance of this one. The only mild disappointment was the tskune, which seemed a little undercooked – I tend to like it more tightly packed and yakied. Couldn’t really argue with the flavor, though. And the meat was less gristly than you tend to find in Japan. Miyabi is a little pricey, so not likely to be a weekly affair, but the quality is easily worth the hit to the wallet.
Filed under: Activities, Big Island, Dining, Family, Hawaii, Travel | Tags: Big Island, hilo, lushness
Fourth of July weekend, parents in town, three day weekend. We jetted over to the Big Island, our collective first visit. Now the Big Island is, as per its namesake… big. We knew it would be impossible to digest in 2.5 days, and so we picked Hilo as our base, opting against the Disney-esque resorts of the Kona side for something a little more authentically Hawaiian.
Stepping off the plane the senses are immediately assaulted, with peaceful violence, by lushness. Hilo is one of the wettest places on the planet, and the foliage bears witness to this fact. We picked up our gas-guzzling, planet-destroyin’ SUV, and headed for the Dolphin Bay Hotel. This modest little row of condos lies just outside downtown Hilo, and though overpriced, is an enjoyable stay. The owner, John, doubles as a font of local knowledge, and is an invaluable resource. He is also the curator of a small jungle garden at the rear of the property, featuring a grove of banana trees that provides part of the fresh fruit breakfast every morning.
Our next stop was the legendary Ken’s House of Pancakes where I ordered one of the more disgusting culinary creations known to man. (That’s a stack of fried eggs, bacon, ham and pancakes.)
We then paid our respects to Pele, the volcano goddess.
Hiked the Desolation Trail.
And explored the lava tubes.
On Saturday morning we hit the farmer’s market.
Then drove down to Ahanalui, a natural hot spring fed by crashing ocean waves.
Instead of fireworks, we watched lava flow into the ocean at dusk.
The final morning before our flight we walked around Hilo, bought some sweets at the iresistable Sugar Coast Candy, and had easily our best meal of the trip at Cafe Pesto.
Located on Waialae, the Fat Greek is basically a poor man’s Olive Tree (and not in the sense that it is cheaper). The NZ rack of lamb was certainly the standout dish, tender bulbs of meat clinging with supple succulence to bone. Yet the portions don’t seem to justify the price tag. (The same claim could be made for the Olive Tree, though I would argue they make up for it). The only reason to bypass the Olive Tree for the Fat Greek is if you run out of gas.
For a long time I had been avoiding Teddy’s although I knew they had a reputation for mean burgers. I think it was the sad-looking attempt at 50’s nostalgia with the decor that put me off. It couldn’t have been the location, because we practically lived around the corner from it for nine months. Well, I will no longer avoid the place, because I am here to announce that pound for pound their burgers rate among the best on this island. The special sauce, a kind of honey mustard thing reminiscent of Big Mac sauce (but way better) gives it a unique character, and the fries ain’t too shabby either. Of course, if anyone local happens to read this blog, I’ll just be preaching to the choir. You can’t mention the place without someone gushing with praise.
Last weekend we decided to eat out as a family, and venture into the realm of Japanese cuisine, which, oddly enough, we had not yet done. Our reluctance to sample the local washoku is due in part to Mizuho’s innate bias against Hawaiian Japanese. Many a time has she complained that “there is no good Japanese food in Hawaii.” Given how little of it we have tried, that is a pretty bold claim.
The target was Tokkuri Tei, on Kapahulu, an izakaya with something of a local reputation and history. Unfortunately logistics were not on our side, and we arrived too early and too late to get a non-reserved table (they accept reservations up until 7). We did, however, get the valet parking (tiny lot, very stupid, park in the street if you go), and the valet dude recommended we see if Irifune had any tables, since it is just a block away.
We did, they did, at Irifune we dined. Not such a big fan of the breaded tofu, but the garlic crab was savory, and the oyako-don we got for the kids was very well done. Interior is quirky, but comfortable, and the place attracts large groups and families, which makes for a warm, lively atmosphere.
Best of all, it passed the Mizuho test (though it was a stretch to find items that would meet the strict requirements of her rampant vegetarianism). I don’t think we’ll be hearing any more of those woeful complaints about the lack of satisfying Japanese restaurants on the island.
…Town. Lunched there last weekend, a Kaimuki destination. A very modern-ish interior and menu for Hawaii. Somehow the cooks managed to ruin the gnocchi I ordered, but the pasta they brought out gratis was pretty packed with flavor and freshness. The staff handled the situation fairly well, throwing in a free dessert. I’d like to see what their dinners are like.
Diamond Head Market and Grill. What it is: a deli with assorted sandwiches and salads, and a takeout window with a range of plate lunches (Aside: why do they call them “plate lunches” when they are mostly sold in styrofoam shells, even when you’re eating in?). I had a swordfish fillet with asparagus tips plate, and sampled some of Mizuho’s Greek salad – all very fresh and flavorful. Already envisioning future repeat visits.
Filed under: Dining, Hawaii, North Shore | Tags: coffee gallery, haleiwa, watery
A few weeks ago found us in Haleiwa – which deserves a post of its own, but I have no photographic evidence to speak of – the day was cloudy and I was not in a photographic mood. Late in the afternoon in Haleiwa I found myself craving a caffeine kick, and the family needed a break from trolling the boutiques. I asked a surf shop owner where one might procure a cup of the black stuff, and he pointed us toward Coffee Gallery.
Entry to the shop was full of promise, a blast of fresh roasted beans hitting me in the face like an angry woman. I immediately launched into a diatribe about how one of the ways in which Starbucks lost its way was by automating everything, which caused the aroma to vanish from the customer experience. But here, here was authenticity! A raw, handmade, organic, lived-in environment. I was so excited I decided to buy a mug.
Then I tasted the coffee.
Colossal letdown. A thin, watery, weak brew. It was like opening a bottle of red with a luscious bouquet that belies a bitter taste. At least it is comforting to know that I don’t have to drive all the way to Haleiwa for the best coffee on the island. So far, Coffee Talk, which I wrote about before, wins my prize for the best local cup.
Unfortunately, I am stuck with the mug.
