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Surfs Up

June 8, 2008

Finally got around to having my first surf – four weeks too late!

Rented a board from the Ezekiel tent behind the Duke statue and, hoping for an epic experience of Biblical proportions that would live up to the namesake of my rental board, tried to run out into the surf before I had received my ankle leash and had to be chased down by one of the rental staff.

Fuckin-A, man, surfing Waikiki is childsplay. And it is, literally. I saw loads of kids tiny fractions of my age riding far bigger waves than the shorehuggers I was catching. Even I was getting some good rides. Sure, I looked like a tottering grandmother on my twenty-foot board.

But I was a surfing granny. And that’s cool.

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